Adventures in Belize: Day Five, Pt. II – Nocturnal Insanity

Really, this night deserves an entry all its own.

Our Canadian Dog.

A word ought to be said about the place they were renting and the neighbourhood it was in. They were staying on the second story of a two-story house. In the back yard, there were three of the angriest, loudest guard dogs you have ever heard. Lots of

Belize Dog.

people own dogs in Belize and few treat them as they’d be treated in North America. Dogs are meant to protect and to stay outside. They are pets only in the loosest sense of the word. When anyone climbed up the steps to the second floor, the three of them would launch into their frothy, unhinged barking fits, sending an unmistakable message: they are good at their jobs.

The house was on a small street that had a lot of families and, we’re fairly sure, a barber shop that doubled as a gambling house at night. Throughout the day – and the evening, for that matter – people were outside talking, drinking, strolling, yelling, what have you. There was one gentleman in particular who took a shine to my mother-in-law, bellowing out for, “his friend, the Canadian” as he tottered down the street, jug in hand.

So, back to the evening of Day 5 when we finally crashed. We’d heard a soccer game being played not too far off and every once in a while, you’d hear the ref’s whistle go off. Not terribly distracting, but at 11pm, we were surprised the game was still going. We were less surprised when we heard the dogs go off – essentially under our heads, as our room was directly above the back lawn – when people started trickling home from the game. No, we were not surprised, but we were startled. Roughly every half hour to an hour. All night. Once one dog started, the other dogs in the neighbourhood joined in on their canine chorus causing me to jump out of bed on an hourly basis and, consequently, waking up J.  This, literally, went on all night. It should be noted that there were also sporadic arguments among the neighbours, but it was the dogs that really got me.

Artist's Rendering of Belizean Birds

Until it was the birds. The screeching, evil birds at 5am.

Oh, let’s not forget the church bells rang at 15-minute intervals beginning at 5:45am.

Then the big fight among the next door neighbours that started around 6:30am and began,  “EY! What my woman doin’ at your house?!” and quickly morphed into Creole that I couldn’t even attempt to understand. I gathered the gist of the argument, though. And, not to be outdone, a few more angry barks from Cerebrus downstairs. Lying on my back, hands clenched, teeth gritted, I’m sure the entire district heard my impassioned cry, “Doesn’t anybody SLEEP in this *%&@ing country?!!!”

At that point, the only thing we could hear was the sound of our own, sleep-deprived, hysterical laughter.

As much as we really did appreciate the hospitality our family showed us, we got a hotel room the next night.

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~ by foodNURD on April 5, 2011.

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